A RIDE IN THE DESERT

The Kelso Railroad Depot in the middle of the Mojave National Preserve

I would venture to say that for most motorcycle enthusiasts, a ride through the mountains on a twisty, scenic highway is the ultimate ride. For me, the wide open expanse of the desert is right up there near the top of my list. There's just something about being in an environment where you can see for miles and miles, and your presence is like a speck in the middle of such wide open spaces. Most people see the desert as nothing more than a place to pass through as quickly as possible. Conversely, I enjoy being the only person on a lonely highway, in the middle of nowhere, where my thoughts are free to wander almost as far as the expansive landscape. OK, so this type of motorcycle riding is not for everybody, but give me the solitude of the wide open desert on my Harley, and I'm a happy camper.

My first stop, on the first day of my ride was the Kelso railroad depot, that now serves as the headquarters for the Mojave National Preserve. This is the second time I have visited this restored piece of railroad history that has found new life as part museum, and part central point of activity for the fairly new, federal preserve. Kelso is truly in the middle of nowhere! You have to venture a long way off of either I15, or I40 to find Kelso. Back in the days of steam railroading, this was a place that provided helper engines, so that the trains headed toward Las Vegas, could climb the long eastbound grade that began in Kelso. The building is a great piece of architecture, that doesn't quite fit in the middle of the desert, but is now enjoying it's second lease on life.

Death Valley Junction

When I can combine a ride on the Harley, with some railroad history, it's like double the fun. I did a self portrait in Death Valley Junction, a place where a branch railroad line toward the mines in Death Valley, left the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad. The T&T ran alongside Hwy 127 for much of the distance between Baker, CA. and the Nevada State line, and a good portion of the old right of way is still visible. I ended the first day in Beatty, NV., a small town on Hwy 95, a little over 100 miles north of Las Vegas.

The next morning, I headed west and passed through Death Valley, picking up Hwy 190 on the valley floor. Death Valley is a fascinating place, but not a place that you would want to visit in the middle of July. The highest recorded temperature in North America was 134 degrees on July 10, 1913 in Death Valley. Knowing that I was quickly going from below sea level, to about 5,000 above sea level, my jacket stayed on, as I made the long climb to the top of Towne Pass.
I made a left turn in the Panamint Valley, traveling south on Trona Rd toward Ridgecrest. This is the valley that on several occasions, I have watched FA18's from China Lake N.A.S., make low level passes, but no sightings on this day.

After a quick gas stop in Ridgecrest, the Walker pass over the southern Sierras was my next objective. Lake Isabella was almost full, probably due to all of the snow this year. I passed through Bakersfield (not my favorite town), and headed for the oil fields, where I picked up Hwy 33 in Taft. One of the few roads I have not traveled, is the southern end of Hwy 33 where it crosses the mountains from the southern San Joaquin Valley, into the Ojai Valley. This was another objective of the ride, to see this section of highway that had been closed on a couple of other occasions when I was in the area. I wasn't disappointed, as the ride over the mountains was as scenic as it was twisty.

By the time I reached the outskirts of L.A., it was getting late, and I didn't want to deal with Friday afternoon traffic. I found a Best Western in Fillmore, and called it a day.

I rose early, and hit the road at about 7am, wanting to put some miles on early. The weather forecast for the desert, (which I had to cross again) was temps near 100 in some areas. The jacket came off at a gas stop in Apple Valley, as I headed east on Hwy 247 toward Yucca Valley and 29 Palms. Crossing the southern Mojave desert on Hwy 62, it's about 100 miles between services, and there isn't much civilization between 29 Palms, CA. and Parker, AZ. When I arrived in Parker, the temperature was in the mid 90's, and when I stopped along the Parker Strip of the Colorado River, I snapped a quick picture. I think it's safe to say that the warmer temps have sparked the beginning of the boating season, as there was a lot of activity on the river. I briefly stopped at the Bluewater Casino, where I watched some circle boat racing action, that continues through tomorrow.

Back home by mid afternoon, with a little over 1,000 miles logged on the odometer. It was a great ride, in a great country, with great weather, on a great bike!