MOUNTAINS, A VALLEY & A BIG OCEAN

Looking west over Tioga Pass on the eastern side of the Sierras

In one long day of riding, I crossed the Sierra Nevada Mountains, passed through the San Joaquin Valley, rode over the Coastal Mountain Range, then traveled along the ocean for about 100 miles on the Pacific Coast Highway. The variety of scenery and terrain was incredibly diverse, ranging from spectacular mountains, to scenic ocean panoramas.

When I left Lee Vining, the temperature was 46 degrees, so I layered on the clothing, and by the time I crested the Sierras at just under 10,000 feet, it was quite a bit colder than 46. As I made my way through Yosemite National Park, and dropped in elevation, it started to warm up, and by the time I reached Crane Flat, the coat came off.

This is a picture of the lower Yosemite Valley, taken from Crane Flat Rd.

When I reached the turn off to Hwy 140 in Yosemite Valley, I headed west along the Merced River, with the San Joaquin Valley as the next destination.

This is one of two temporary bridges around a huge landslide, that have been in place for a couple of years now.

With a full tank of fuel in Mariposa, I was set to make my way across the very flat, central San Joaquin Valley. By way of Merced and Los Banos, in a little over an hour, I was climbing over the Pacheco Pass on Hwy 152, with Monterey as the next destination. Other than the pure joy of riding a motorcycle, the valley, where we used to live for many years, is not a great place to catch the wind. With all of the agriculture, there is an abundance of insects, not much in the way of scenery, and Oooo those wonderful smells relating to fertilizers, pesticides, and rotting tomatoes. By the time I got to Monterey, the temperatures had cooled, and the aromas were much more pleasant.

With a full tank of fuel, I headed south through Carmel, and then.....Oh No, a thick layer of fog awaited me. I've ridden, and driven this 100 mile stretch of coast highway a bazillion times, and you never know exactly what kind of weather you're going to get. With my coat back on, I was prepared to make this trip in the fog, but fortunately, south of Big Sur, the fog lifted, and the incredible vistas of mountains, ocean, and crashing surf was all in front of me. With nothing but bright sunshine, I stored the coat, and rode the rest of the day in just a t-shirt.

South of Cambria, I turned east on Hwy 46, and at about 5pm, I pulled into Paso Robles, where a room and a shower was the first order of business. Not sure of the miles today, but I was in one of my zones where riding was all that mattered. Except for a few pictures, and fuel, no stopping for anything else, not even food. Tomorrow, I think it will be a straight shot home. Lots of stuff to do before we take off in the motor home for Carson City.

RIDIN THE DESERT

After an early breakfast at the Saddle West Casino in Pahrump, NV, I fired up the Harley, and headed west toward the lowest point of land in the Western Hemisphere. At Death Valley Junction (Hwy 127 & 190), I followed Hwy 190 into the Valley of Death, stopping at the only gas station for many miles in any direction.

As you can see, with no competition, the prices at Furnace Creek Chevron are in the stratosphere! I never thought that filling the 5 gallon tank on the Harley would cost nearly $30.

I wonder if golf balls travel less distance when you're playing below sea level?

From Furnace Creek, the road took me north towards Scotty's Castle, and a quick stop for a picture. Even though it's called Scotty's Castle, the person who built it was from Chicago, and his name was Johnson. He and Death Valley Scotty were best of friends, and most of the money that Walter Scott spent, was allegedly from the pockets of Mr. Johnson.

From the Castle at the north end of Death Valley, I followed the road east to it's junction with Hwy 95. A few miles north on 95, and I turned west on Hwy 266, with Fish Lake Valley, and the town of Dyer, NV as my next destination. The highway through Dyer is one that had eluded my travels, but is now checked off the small list of remaining roads in CA & NV that I have not driven on.

After a gas stop in Dyer, I continued north to Hwy 6, then southwest to Benton, where I turned west on Hwy 120. About 5 miles west of Benton is a small valley with an abundance of water from natural hot springs. The picture of the pipe spilling very hot water into the pond, is one that brings back quite a few memories. When the kids were little, their grandfather had an old trailer parked next to this pond, and we used to camp at this natural jacuzzi several times a year. This is the place where I started to really like the desert, particularly the fragrant smell of the blooming sagebrush.

During the years we camped at Benton Hot Springs, the old store was open, and you could buy a beer, or a shot of whiskey, even though the owners, Buster & Mable Bramlett didn't have a liquor license. Since their passing, I understand that their son lives on the property, and operates a bed a breakfast across the street from the old store.

Mono Lake as viewed from Hwy 120, east of Hwy 395

Not wanting to tackle Tioga Pass over the Sierras until morning, I stopped at the Lake View Lodge in Lee Vining, CA for the night. Tomorrow, it's westbound through Yosemite, with the next destination probably somewhere around Monterey, in preparation for a ride down the holy grail of motorcycle roads, Hwy 1 on the Pacific Coast of California.

DEATH VALLEY OR BUST

I took this photo while cruising westbound on I40 at 9:30 am. Note the ambient temperature is exactly 100 degrees at 70 mph!

OK, this is a first, regarding posts on my blog while on a Harley ride. I've never taken the computer with me on previous rides. Instead, I've always posted pictures and stories after I've returned back home. I decided it was time to change things up a bit, so the laptop went into the tour pak, and I took off for Las Vegas at about 9am. The plan was to try and stop in Vegas, and get a new rear tire, so I made a couple of phone calls before leaving Lake Havasu. The first call went to Henderson H-D, and they weren't sure they could squeeze me into their schedule. So, I made a second call to Las Vegas H-D, and they said "stop by, we'll get you in and out by early afternoon". With not too much tread left on the rear skin, that was good news.

It was a little after noon, when I pulled into Las Vegas Harley-Davidson, and dropped the bike at their service department for a new rear tire, and an oil & filter change. By 2:30, I was on the road, heading for Pahrump, NV, with new rear rubber, and fresh oil circulating through my 95 inch Harley motor. With the new stereo blasting my favorite tunes from the Ipod, I couldn't help but think that life was really good, and the open road was calling for me to wander in whatever direction I felt like going.

I knew I was headed for Death Valley, one of my favorite places to ride, and coming up was Pahrump, NV, the last civilization for quite a few miles. After standing at the counter of the Best Western, and the Nugget Casino, only to learn that they had just rented their last rooms, I headed to the Saddle West Casino in hopes of finding a place to spend the night. Fortunately, they had a few rooms left, and I'm now sitting at a desk, posting for the first time on one of my Harley rides.

Tomorrow, despite the heat, the route will take me into Death Valley, where I seem to have a spiritual experience every time I ride the bike through that very unique landscape. From there, I'll probably head for Tioga Pass, a route over the Sierras, and through Yosemite National Park.
After that, who knows?

TIME TO RIDE

I picked up the motor home yesterday afternoon, and drove it back to the house with fresh oil, new filters, and a brand new electronic fan control module. The cost of the fan module was only $951.53, about $100 less than originally estimated. What a deal! Our out of pocket expense came to a total of $126.87, which included the $50 deductible, sales tax, and shop supplies.

With that out of the way, this morning is a much anticipated get away on the Harley, with the first destination being Death Valley. From there, I'll probably head north for one of the Sierra Nevada mountain passes, and a stop at our old business, Jamestown Harley-Davidson. By the time I get that far, I'll need to replace the rear tire, as one comment to yesterdays blog suggested.

If anyone happens to be in southwest Nevada, or eastern California during the next couple of days, don't be surprised if off in the distance, you hear the booming sounds of classic rock music coming from a Harley, cruising off toward the sunset.

AN EXPENSIVE PART

After posting on the blog yesterday, I went by Joes RV & Truck, and talked to the owner about the radiator fan problem. The electronic fan control module was the failed part, and when they called Monaco, the stars must have been aligned just right, because they had the exact part in stock, and it was already programed for the Cummins ISL 400 engine. Maybe I shouldn't have said that, because the module isn't here yet, and well, you know, Murphy's law could still be applicable.

When the problem was diagnosed yesterday, I told Joe I would pay the extra shipping charge for an overnight delivery, so, it should be here this morning. Changing the module will only take a few minutes, so again, with any luck, the motor home should be back under the shade cover by this afternoon. When I asked what the cost was for this fan control module, it's a good thing I was braced against the counter, because the cost before shipping and tax is going to be $1,055. That's the bad news. The good news is we still have about 2 years left on the warranty we purchased when we bought the new motor home. This very expensive part will end up costing us $50, plus the overnight shipping charge. I normally don't purchase extended warranties because I usually don't come out ahead, however, in this case, I'm way ahead of the original cost. During the remaining 2 years of coverage, I think it's probably safe to say that there will be a need to use this warranty again, perhaps more than once. In this case, the crystal ball 4 years ago was right on, and not having to write a check for $1,055 right now, is a pretty good feeling.

The next priority for me, is to throw my leg over the Harley, and as the song Born to be Wild goes - "get out on the highway". As soon as I get the motor home parked, I'll be heading toward one of my most favorite places, Death Valley. It's still a little warm, around 100 degrees, but with the new radio blasting my favorite tunes from the Ipod, I'll be in a zone where the temperature won't even matter!

NEW SOUNDS

Yesterday was all about getting the new radio, speakers, and amp installed in the Harley. By noon, and with one phone call to Biketronics, the company where I got the kit, I was ready to hear how the new equipment sounded. When I first checked the sound on a local FM radio station, I couldn't believe the difference from the old radio. When I plugged in my Ipod shuttle, the clarity and crispness was amplified even more! At maximum volume, the sound wasn't distorted, and almost blew me out of the garage!

OK, so now I'm a very happy camper, ready to hit the road with my favorite music blasting through the new 100 watt speakers. With the old radio/tape deck, I had to turn the volume up to maximum level, just to where the sound was starting to be distorted. When the local radio station started to fade away, the sound level would drop, and eventually, I had to search for a new station. Out in the middle of nowhere, I often had to turn it off until I regained a radio station signal. Now, I can plug in my Ipod, or pop in a CD, and never be without music.

Some Harley enthusiasts might say that the sound of the V-Twin motor is all the music they need. Since my first Harley with a radio, a 1993 Electra Glide, that's when I decided that music from the radio enhanced the Harley experience even more. With the exception of a 95 Road King, and a 96 Bad Boy, my other Harley's after the 93 bagger, have all been equipped with radios.

The diagnosis on the motor home radiator fan problem was that the electronic fan controller module is defective. This morning, Joes RV & Truck, will get the new part ordered, and with any luck, our house on wheels will be back to normal in a few days.

Down to 2 motorcycles and 1 scooter

READJUSTING

Whenever we return home after a long absence, there's always lots of changes that take a period of readjustment. To name a few..... sleeping in the bed requires a few days before it starts to feel normal. Not using your foot to flush the toilet is another mechanical dissimilarity between the house and the motor home. Opening the door to let Sami into the back yard without a leash feels a little strange at first. Taking a shower with lots of water pressure, and not having to turn it off is certainly one of the pleasant changes from the motor home to the house. Trying to remember where stuff is located in the house after an absence, seems to be more of an issue as the years roll by. After a few days, our bodies and minds will make the transition, and when we hit the road again in a couple of weeks, we'll go through the same process in reverse.

The motor home went in yesterday morning for an annual service, and to fix a problem with the side radiator fan. Whatever controls the hydraulic fan was not working properly as the fan was coming on when it shouldn't. As of 4pm yesterday, the shop hadn't been able to diagnose the problem, so the motor home stayed over night. I should know something today.

The summer heat always takes a toll on some of our plants and shrubs, so we've been working in the back yard, attempting to get that back into shape. Yesterday, I took the old radio out of the Harley, and with any luck, will get the new one installed today. Lots of things to do, and with a little more readjusting, things will seem normal once again.

RETURN TO LAKE HAVASU

"Oh No, a picture of me eating junk food"!

We pulled out of space 121 in Trailer Village, at exactly 10am, and hooked up the jeep in Market Plaza. One last look at the General Store where Patty worked, and we were on the road, heading for home in Lake Havasu City. After driving a 40' New Flyer transit bus for 3 1/2 months, sitting in the plush drivers seat of our motor home felt a little strange, but it didn't take long for me to make the adjustment.

We drove through one very intense thunderstorm near Seligman, with lots of rain and lightning bolts. It didn't last very long, and by the time we got to Kingman, the temps were creeping up past any of the high temps we experienced during the summer at the Grand Canyon. When we turned off I40 at the Lake Havasu turn off (SR95), the Pilot was the choice for fuel, and totally by coincidence, they just happen to have a Wendy's. Well, what the heck, I wasn't going to turn down one of my favorite hamburgers, so the little women went inside while I fueled up the motor home. Actually, this was no coincidence at all, as I had been salivating for the last hour or so, about the thought of devouring one of my favorite hamburgers. Whenever I drag Patty, kicking and screaming into a fast food joint, she often just watches me harden my arteries. However, at Wendy's, she has discovered the spicy Asiago Chicken sandwich, which she says is very tasty.
So, the evidence is in the picture. Patty does actually consume junk food, albeit very rarely. Now that we're home, my first In & Out double, double in almost 4 months is a huge blip on today's radar screen!

SHOSHONE POINT & A FLUTE

Shoshone Point in the background over my left shoulder

Yesterday, after we finished getting the motor home ready to go, and had run a few errands, we decided to take one last look at this magnificent Grand Canyon that has been our home for the past 3 1/2 months. We drove east on Hwy 64, about a mile past the Yaki Point turn off, and parked the car at the Shoshone Point road. The road past the locked gate is accessible to pedestrians, but only to vehicles with a permit from the Park Service. It was about a mile walk, and upon arrival, we both agreed that it was well worth the effort. What an incredible view! At the end of the road, at the edge of the Canyon, there are picnic tables, a covered pavilion, and a rest room. This area is often reserved for weddings, special occasions, and in fact, was being set up by a caterer from Sedona for a tour group from France.

After lunch in Tusayan, at you guessed it, Wendy's, I finished up a couple of projects back at the motor home. At 7pm, we met a friend at the Community Center building for the last performance at the Grand Canyon Music Festival. When the festival opened last week, Patty and Beatrice attended a performance, and I agreed to to go with them on this last night. Not knowing anything about the music, I soon found out that the combination of a grand piano, an accordion, and a flute weren't exactly the instruments that create the type of music that I have on my Ipod. Despite my lack of enthusiasm for this cultural event, I must say that the three musicians (2 from Argentina), were quite talented, and part of the performance included a couple who danced very well to the tango music. After my participation at this event, the way I've got it figured, Patty owes me big time, and will now have to ride a countless number of trains for the next 15 years!

This was our first full day off together, since the middle of May, before we both started our jobs, and it was a nice relaxed day. This morning, I'll unhook the utilities, and we'll pull out of Trailer Village, and head for Lake Havasu. We're both looking forward to the next chapter, but not exactly real enthusiastic about returning to 100+ degree weather. I guess you can't have everything.

I hope everybody remembers what happened 10 years ago today, and never forgets the fact that there is an enemy out there that seeks to destroy us.

GOODBYE GRAND CANYON

At least, until next summer. Patty and I both ended our summer of work yesterday, saying adios to many of our co-workers, and supervisors. Without rehashing much of what I've already written, lets just say that both of our jobs met the criteria that we established long ago. I've said many times, if something isn't either fun, exciting, or adventurous, we have the freedom to move on down the road. Speaking for myself, despite the repetition of driving a bus over the same roads day after day, the scenery was incredible, and ever changing. Dealing with the public is kind of like "a box of chocolates, you never know what you're going to get", to quote Forrest Gump. Everyday was different, and being part of the largest public transit system in all of the U.S. National Parks was not only challenging, but rewarding as well. We both leave, feeling that we were a positive contribution to the teams, and can't help but feel that the doors are open for a return next year.

Today we'll be packing up a lot of stuff, and getting the motor home ready to hit the road tomorrow morning. We both have to launder our uniforms, and return them, along with some equipment. There are a few other loose ends that have to be tied up today, and we should be ready to make the trip home tomorrow. We're ready for the next chapter.

LIVING THE DREAM

I think it's safe to say, that one of the ultimate American Dreams most people have, is to be able to retire into a lifestyle, where the pursuit of happiness is indeed meaningful. Some folks like to travel, others enjoy social activities, and many retired people who now have the time, are able to pursue their hobbies and passions with no interruption from the workplace.

For Patty and I, being retired means a lot of different things. Working seasonal jobs, (some folks call it workamping) is one thing that kind of evolved for us, particularly when we started working in Skagway, Alaska during the summers of 2004-2007. The original idea was to give Alaska a try for one summer, and because we enjoyed it so much, we kept returning for the next 3 years. For the last 2 years, we didn't feel like working, so during those summers, we put about 20,000 miles on the motor home, traveling all around this great country of ours.

I guess the point I'm trying to make is that we have lots of choices, and I feel extremely fortunate to be in a position where we're not locked into any one thing. As we both finish our summer of working here at the Grand Canyon National Park, we both see many of our respective co-workers who at our age, or older, are stuck in the workplace, with no end in sight. It's none of my business why that's the case, but comparatively speaking, it's a wonderful feeling, knowing that we have the freedom to pursue whatever adventures appeal to us. When our kids reach their retirement ages, I sincerely hope that they will be in a position to have the same freedoms and opportunities that we do.

Only 2 more work days for both of us, and even though we have enjoyed this summer of work, it's time for a new chapter, and we're anxious to get back to our "big" house in Lake Havasu City.
There will be lots to do when we get home, and the preparation for our RV Rally in Carson City is an ongoing process. As of a few days ago, we have 13 rigs signed up, with 25 people set to attend. After the rally, I think we're headed to CA to visit with Patty's son David, and many of our old friends who reside in the central CA area.

We have a lot to look forward to in the coming months, part of which includes a Caribbean Cruise with our kids, our normal winter activities in, and around southwest Arizona, spending time with Marc, Chandra, and our Grand Daughter Laila, a Harley ride or two, and Patty's trip to Paris with her brother in the spring. Like the Blog title says - "We're living the dream".

A FAST FOOD OASIS

No, this is not an advertisement for Wendy's. Well, maybe it might be. Notwithstanding the lack of compensation from the little redhead, I'm still posting the above picture of the Tusayan Wendy's. Now if Wendy's corporate wants to beat down my door, and throw a whole bunch of money at me for putting a picture of one of their stores on the world wide web, I probably wouldn't turn down the cash. However, I have my doubts as to that actually happening.

Yesterday, on my last day off from work, I drove into Tusayan, and patronized the local Wendy's for lunch. Ordinarily, this wouldn't be something to get very excited about, certainly not worth the effort to blog about, right? I have to say, that in my case, this is big news! For me, just having access to a fast food burger is beyond headline news, it's downright essential to my survival!

Some people can live on just vegetables, others pass on junk food, and some folks, believe it or not, don't like ice cream. I've got news for all of the vegetarians out there, there's actually someone in our midst's who can live exclusively on hamburgers, and that person is me!

Since I have the self assumed title of being the original "fast food junkie", I think it's only fair to rate the respective fast food joints, at least in my humble opinion.

1. In & Out - Not even close, by far the best burger. Patty says the only reason we moved to Lake Havasu City, AZ. is so that I would have everyday access to an In & Out Double, Double.

2. Wendy's - The only other burger joint that doesn't freeze their meat. Not a close 2nd, but way above the others. On many of my motorcycle adventures, a daily stop or two at Wendy's, was the extent of my daily nutrition.

I won't go any further, because if I put any of the remaining fast food joints at #3, or lower, I can almost assure you there would be a gaggle of lawyers, sitting in some board room, salivating at the possibility of bringing forth a libel and slander lawsuit.

Living this past summer here in the Grand Canyon National Park has presented some challenges, like having to drive into Flagstaff (75 miles) for any serious shopping. Fortunately, just outside the park in Tusayan, I've had access to Wendy's and McDonalds. How in the world did I ever survive 4 summers in Skagway, Alaska, where the words Wendy's, McDonalds, Burger King, Jack in the Box, & Carls Jr. were as foreign as many of the visitors who came off the cruise ships?

PATTY'S RETAIL SUMMER

Yesterday, I talked about my job this summer as a shuttle bus driver, and today, I'll touch a little on Patty's thoughts regarding her job in the General Store. Since we're both down to only 4 more work days, I think it's time to also reflect a little on Patty's work experience. Her employer, Delaware North Corp. (DNC), is one of 3 concessionaires here at the Grand Canyon. Their role is limited to the store here at Grand Canyon Village, and the smaller store at Desert View. Xanterra, and the Grand Canyon Association are the other concessionaire's who have larger roles here at the South Rim.

Inside the General store is a pretty good sized grocery store, which includes fresh meats & vegetables. It kind of reminds me of the grocery store in Skagway, Alaska, which was much smaller, but included a little bit of everything. Adjacent to the grocery section, is a gift shop which includes a large selection of camping supplies, footwear, books, apparel, and all of the usual tourist trinkets. Most of Patty's work hours have been on the gift shop side of the store, but she has spent a good percentage of her time cashiering on the grocery side as well. Learning all of the In's and Out's of grocery retail is a whole lot more than just sliding items past the bar code scanner. She has often stated that she has a new appreciation for folks that work as grocery cashiers.

When Patty interviewed for the job, she was told that probably about mid summer, when other workers, mostly from foreign countries, started arriving, that her work week could be less than a full 40 hours. That was OK with her, potentially allowing for more time off to explore the area, and do other things. The extra time off never materialized, but it really didn't matter, because she still had time to participate in a lot of Ranger programs, and explore on her own. When Nancy was here for 10 days, those girls didn't let any grass grow under their feet!

A group of young adult workers from the southern states Baptist Church, adopted Patty as "Miss Patty", earning them a high place in her category of pleasant, respectful co-workers. From the "Baptist Kids", to the "Taiwan Kids", to the local workers, the relationship with her peers was quite positive.

Patty's overall experience with DNC has been almost entirely positive, with little on the other side of the spectrum. She has enjoyed the family atmosphere, the encouragement to provide the highest level of customer satisfaction, and the companies commitment to a greener path through recycling, and other environmental friendly policies. She was recognized several times by DNC for her ability to provide outstanding customer service, and was rewarded with a very nice hydration back pack. The relationship between supervision and workers was excellent, and she has enjoyed getting acquainted with her co-workers, who in large part, are/were from foreign countries. Patty has often made the statement "I need my people fix". Well, this summer has certainly provided her with an opportunity to be well fixed with an exposure to people from all around the world. Neither of us had any idea that so many people from foreign countries visited the Grand Canyon National Park.

During several discussions, we both have stated that we would like to return next summer, and that simply wouldn't be the case, if either of us had a bad work experience. It's nice to be in a position where working for a few months is more in the category of an adventure, as opposed to a necessary commitment, due to the requirement of a financial gain.

DRIVING A TRANSIT BUS

After 3 1/2 months behind the wheel of a 40' Transit Bus, I think I can safely say, the experience has been unique, at least in respect to my previous work camping jobs. I've driven tour buses in Alaska, and my one summer as a supervisor for the Glacier National Park transit system exposed me to some part time bus driving, but none of that compares to driving a shuttle bus here at the Grand Canyon National Park.

When I applied for this job, I knew I had the driving skills necessary to be a competent, and safe bus driver, but like any new workplace, there's always a certain amount of anxiety regarding new policies, procedures, schedules, and all that goes along with learning any new job. During the initial week long training session, there were a few times when I wondered what I had gotten myself into. The learning curve seemed like it was quite steep, and even though I've always been pretty adaptable to most situations, I remember thinking that there was an awful lot to learn, in a short amount of time.

Now that it's almost time to leave, with a bunch of bus driving miles under my belt, I feel like I have become a part of the team, and more of an asset, than a liability. While learning this job, I made many of the rookie mistakes, but fortunately, none were of a serious nature, and I guess that's all part of the learning process.

This picture was taken out the front bus door, at the Powell Point bus stop

Last week, I had a short conversation with the bus system manager, and even though she wanted me to stay for another 3 months, I made it clear that for a number of reasons, I only wanted to work the summer season. When the subject of me returning next summer came up, she was reluctant to commit, and commented that she preferred to hire drivers who were willing to stay for 6 and 9 month periods of time. We agreed to touch base after the first of the year, and she would be in a better position to let me know about working again next summer. So, nothing is definite, but I can't help but think we'll be back, and unless we hear otherwise, that's what we're planning.

COUNTING THE DAYS

We're into the last few days of our summer stay here at the Grand Canyon. The last work day for both of us is September 9th, and we plan on pulling out of here on September 11th.

When we get back to Lake Havasu City, there will be a multitude of things that need to be done, from getting the house back in order, to getting the motor home serviced, and installing my new stereo system in the Harley. We won't be home very long, as we'll be heading north to Carson City, NV. where we will be hosting a rally for our Golden Spike RV Chapter, beginning on September 29th. As of this morning, there are 13 RV's signed up, with perhaps a few more late comers still to register. I had planned for 20-30 people, and it looks like we'll be within that window. Should be lots of fun, and another great train ride! As we end our almost 4 months of working, and living here in Grand Canyon National Park, I think it's safe to say that it has been an almost entirely enjoyable experience. In no particular order, the positives have been...........

• An RV space with full hookups for $90 a month, + electricity (about the same $ as rent)
  
• Walking distance (about 10-15 minutes) to Patty's work place.
• Almost perfect weather environment - Avg. daytime temps in the 70's & 80's, cooling into the 50's at night.
• Scenery that is unbelievable, and never gets old, including lots of wildlife.
  
• Jobs that provided some challenges, and an equal number of rewards.
• Extra income that padded the bank accounts.

As with anything, there's always two sides to any story, and with our experiences this summer, the negatives have been.............

• No matter how interesting the job may be, punching a time clock gets old.
• Not having the same days off.
• A few days where our work schedules required our dog to stay in the motor home longer than we would have liked.
• Dealing with the public, especially foreign tourists, tends to test your patience.
• Having to drive to Flagstaff for anything other than basics shopping.
  

With everything taken into account, we both agree that we want to return here next summer, working the 3-4 months between mid May and early September. If there's no dramatic changes in the staffing requirements by our respective employers, and no other unforeseen changes, the plan is to be right back here in about 8 1/2 months.

A FLIGHT OVER THE FIRES

On the spur of the moment, on my next to the last set of days off before leaving the Grand Canyon, I decided to go flying. Grand Canyon Airlines offers the workers in the park a great deal at $20 a flight, and this is the second time I've taken a 1 hr. flight over, and around the canyon.

Cessna Caravan

Besides not having anything else to do, I was curious about how a few forest fires in the area would look from the air. One of the fires has been burning on the north rim since being started by lightning on July the 4th. All of the the 3 fires that I got pictures of, are burning in uninhabited areas, and they are being allowed to burn their way into a natural conclusion.

The muddy Colorado River west of it's junction with the Little Colorado River

This fire is burning south east of the Grand Canyon Village

During these 2 flights over the Canyon, I've been taking a mental inventory of the forest service, and national park roads. Next year, if we return as planned, the KLR 650 Dual Sport Motorcycle is coming with us, and I can see a few of my days off on the back country dirt roads, exploring the South Rim area.

The Pilot Fire started on July 4th, and has burned almost 3,000 acres

On some days, the Pilot Fire sends huge plumes of smoke into the atmosphere, and depending on which way the wind is blowing, the smoke often ends up in the canyon. On this day, it didn't look like much of a fire, as the smoke was hardly visible.

This small fire is on the North Rim, and like the other 2, was caused by lightning

This second flight over the canyon was as enjoyable as the first one, and since I was alone, the lady pilot said it was OK to sit in the co-pilot seat. The forward view was awesome, and when ever I fly in small planes, I always regret having not completed my one attempt to become a licensed private pilot. While living in Los Banos, CA, I took a ground school at the community college, but didn't pursue the license any further. For me, flying in small planes is just plain fun!
Flying in bigger people movers, like commercial jets is only fun during the take off and landings. I'm not particularly looking forward to our December flight to Florida, but I sure am looking forward to cruising the Caribbean with our kids and Grand Daughter.

Air Force One landed here at the Grand Canyon last year, on this 9,000' runway

CHP MEMORIES

Back in the early 1980's, I had no idea what "suicide by cop" meant, but on one spring afternoon, while working the swing shift in Los Banos, I learned the definition first hand.

My assigned beat was the southern section of Interstate 5, and the routine day of writing speeding tickets changed dramatically, when the Officer working the east end of State Route 152 radioed that he had a failure to yield. As the minutes ticked by, this failure to yield turned into a high speed chase, heading west toward the city of Los Banos. I wasn't the closest unit, but I started heading toward town, where I would be in position to assist if the pursuit continued west bound. I think the initial violation was speeding, and the Officer attempting to stop the fleeing vehicle was an Officer I had trained just a few months before this incident. He had less than a year on the job, was a good trainee, and was developing into a very competent Officer.

When the chase was nearing the city, I turned east on State Route 152, and headed for an intercept with the pursuit. By then, there were 3 patrol cars in position behind the violator. My trainee was the primary Officer, behind him was a Sheriff's Deputy, and the 3rd chase vehicle was our shift Sergeant. A couple of miles west of town, the speeder pulled over to the right, as the 3 patrol cars lined up behind him. At about the same time, I pulled into the very wide center dividing median, and positioned my patrol car directly across from the violators driver door. I was probably about 75 feet away, as the driver opened his door.

At this point, the incident escalated several notches, as I noticed that the driver had a semi automatic hand gun in his right hand. The other officers were not in a position to see what I saw, and I yelled to them that he had a gun. I also yelled at him more than once to drop the gun. His next move was to swivel in his seat to where his feet were now on the ground, and he was directly facing me, still seated in the vehicle. By then, all of us had our weapons drawn, and I had mine resting on the roof of the patrol vehicle. As this individual sat in his seat facing me, he deliberately jacked the slide mechanism on the handgun, placing a round in the firing chamber.
By doing this, there was no doubt in my mind that his intent was to shoot at something. I yelled to the other officers that he had just jacked a round into the chamber, and every one's alert level escalated to the highest level. I remember thinking that the outcome of this was not going to be good, and was so sure that shots were going to be fired, that I pulled back the hammer of my 357, and took aim at this individual. Our weapons training was never single action, but rather all shooting at the range was double action. I was so sure that I was going to have to shoot this guy, that I wanted to make sure I hit him with the first shot. I remember yelling at him that if he didn't drop the gun, he was going to get shot, and was going to die! That statement turned out to be rather prophetic.

His next move was to slowly stand, and turn toward the back of his car, facing the 3 patrol vehicles behind him. My threat level had diminished slightly, as he was no longer facing me, but the threat to the other Officers increased substantially. After standing, within a second or two, he started to raise the handgun to a position where he would have been able to shoot at the 3 Officers behind him. Just as he started to raise the weapon, I started to squeeze the trigger on my revolver, but several shots came first from the 3 Officers who were the most vulnerable.
As the victim went down, I remember thinking what in the world was wrong with this guy? If he wanted to shoot it out with us, he certainly wasn't interested in any strategy of protecting himself.

I immediately called for an ambulance, and at about the same time, noticed that 2 vehicles had stopped in the east bound lanes, near where I was parked. Before they could drive off, I approached both vehicles, and retrieved witness information and brief statements. Both drivers couldn't believe what they has just observed, and part of their disbelief was the fact that this guy stood out in the open, and raised his gun toward 3 armed Officers. The individual was pronounced dead at the hospital, and needless to say, the rest of the shift was a lot of paperwork, and as with all departmental shootings, a lengthy investigation was initiated.

The conclusion to this incident was a Coroners Inquest, several weeks later, where all Officers and witnesses testified in front of the Grand Jury in Merced, CA. It was at that proceeding, several recorded telephone messages were played between the victim and his girlfriend. On those tapes, the victim threatened suicide, due to a previous breakup in that relationship. He even stated how he was going to go down in a blaze of glory, not the usual overdose of sleeping pills. With that evidence, and the testimony of the two independent witnesses, the finding was that this guy committed suicide in what was a most unusual method. The final outcome from the Inquest, the District Attorney, the CHP, & the Sheriff's Department was that the shooting was justifiable.

That was the closest I ever came to firing my weapon at a person while wearing the CHP uniform. I had been shot at, but fortunately, never had to shoot toward another human being. Other than the range, I only fired my weapon one time during my career, and that's a subject for another memory.

CLUELESS PHOTOGRAPHERS

I know, you're probably thinking......here we go again with more Elk pictures. It's really hard to resist the temptation, when these magnificent critters are seen almost every day. Yesterday, my shift started at the Grand Canyon Visitors Center, where I took over a bus from a morning driver. As I pulled into the transit loading area, I saw a crowd of people taking pictures of this very large Bull Elk. We see this scene of crowds taking pictures of wildlife all of the time. (As I'm writing this, 5 Mule Deer Bucks, all 4 pointers or more, just strolled by the motor home).

The way people approach these wild animals is almost like they're at a zoo, with an invisible fence protecting them from any kind of harm. There are several of these male Elk that stay here in the park year round, and they have all lost the velvet on their huge antlers. Yesterday for the first time, I saw two of these males sparring with each other, their antlers locked together. It didn't look like they were very serious about their combat positions, but it was definitely a precursor of what's just around the corner.

When these males start getting serious about protecting their harems of females, what occurred yesterday would fall under the heading of "stupid tourists, in a potentially dangerous situation". There are signs all over the park warning the public to not feed, or approach any of the wildlife. As you might expect, and as illustrated by the pictures above, those signs are for the most part ignored. I guess I shouldn't be surprised, a vast number of drivers ignore the traffic signs as well!

SIGNS, SIGNS, EVERYWHERE A SIGN

This sign is posted at the entrance gate to the Paul Revere Transportation Bus Yard

The Federal Governments Recovery Act, or sometimes known as the stimulus, authorized almost a trillion dollars of taxpayer money to be spent on thousands of projects around the country. There's no question that jobs were either created, or saved with this massive amount of government funding. There are however, a couple of bigger questions associated with such massive expenditures by the Federal Government.

With a debt of 14.3 trillion, and a recent congressional authorized borrowing of another trillion or two, was this recent stimulus expenditure a smart, or a dumb move by the government. If the country wasn't so far in debt, I might argue that it was a smart move. Conversely, with such unprecedented government debt, I simply can't reconcile the idea of continuing to borrow more money. The burden we are placing on future generations is almost criminal!

I know I've touched on this subject before, but when I noticed the sign at work, I did a little research into where some of the stimulus money has gone. Here at Grand Canyon National Park, somewhere in the neighborhood of 5 million was spent, mostly on road maintenance. At the bus yard, an oil chip seal was done last summer, and I suspect that's why the recovery sign is hanging on the fence.

The thousands of recovery signs around the country, telling the taxpayers where their money is being spent, is just one example of government waste, in my opinion. The estimates of the cost of all those signs, including the one where I work, is somewhere between 5 and 20 million dollars. The cost of this small sign on the fence was approx. $225. The big signs you have all probably seen on highways, cost in the neighborhood of $10,000. Maybe some people need to see signs, telling them where the government is spending their money. Personally, I don't.

CHP MEMORIES

1982 5.0 liter Special Service Package (SSP) Mustang

In 1982, the CHP went to the Ford Motor Company, and asked if they could build a pursuit vehicle, capable of chasing down high speed violators. Ford stepped up to the plate, and came out with the above Mustang, capable of top speeds in the 120-130 mph range. These vehicles were equipped with manual transmissions, and were advertised to police agencies as "this Ford chases Porsches for a living".

The prior decade of patrol vehicles were of the full size sedan type, like the Dodge Polara, and the Ford Crown Victoria. From about 1972 on, the performance of these vehicles was pretty anemic, as the emphasis in Detroit was for smaller, emission type motors, and less performance. As a result, the top speeds for police vehicles kept falling, and it became much harder to enforce maximum speed laws on the wide open interstate highways like I5.

I can remember one night in the late 1970's, my partner and I spotted a Porsche traveling north bound on I5, at a very high rate of speed. We were driving a Dodge, equipped with an overhead light bar, and a little over 100 mph was as fast as the slug would go. We made a u-turn, and after what seemed like forever, we closed to within about 500 feet, and turned on the the red & blue lights. Instead of seeing brake lights on the Porsche, all we saw was disappearing tail lights, as the driver accelerated to probably 40-60 mph faster than our top speed. We never got close enough for a license number, but still called in a failure to yield, in hopes that perhaps the adjacent office would have better luck. Without the ability to stay at least close, this scenario played out more times than I care to admit.

In 1983, our office got the first Mustang, and despite the cramped interior, this was probably the fastest CHP vehicle since the 1969 Dodge. It didn't have the top speed of the 69 Dodge, but it was 20-30 mph faster than anything we had driven in many years. The manual transmission was at times problematic, when multi tasking was required. Trying to shift through the gears, talk on the radio, and make notes, all at the same time, was sometimes challenging. But, I have to admit, banging through the gears, while accelerating after a speeder, was a performance junkies dream come true.

For the next decade, Ford built approx. 15,000 of these SSP (Special Service Package) Mustangs, that were delivered to over 60 police agencies. Most of the departments were State Highway Patrols, and the CHP was the initial recipient of 405 of the 1982 Mustangs.

Most of our enforcement efforts in the Los Banos Office were targeted towards Interstate 5, and CA State Route 152. Both of these highways are long, and straight, where high speed enforcement was the top priority. The Ford Mustang was a welcome relief to many years of driving underpowered patrol vehicles.

A NEW HARLEY RADIO

One of my personal pleasures in life, is to jump on the Harley, head out on the highway, and turn the radio up to full volume. For me, it doesn't get much better than listening to the sound of that V-Twin motor, as a backdrop to some good ole rock & roll music. The only problem with that scenario is that the good ole rock & roll music must come from a local radio station. I often like to ride in remote locations like Death Valley, and I can assure you, there is no local, classic rock radio station in Death Valley.

My Electra Glide Classic is 10 years old, and every time I think about getting a new one, I keep saying to myself, "this old bike is the best running Harley that I've ever had". When it was brand new, before I ever put a single mile on it, I had our best engine builder take the motor completely apart. Bryan rebuilt the engine with lots of performance parts, and after 10 years and 30k miles, it still runs perfect, and has never seeped or leaked a speck of oil.

The great running motor notwithstanding, the radio with it's dinosaur cassette player, has seen better days. The tape player, or perhaps the few tapes I have left, don't seem to work any more. So, for years, my riding music has been limited to whatever radio station was within reception range. Often, especially in places like Death Valley, the sound of the Harley motor was the only music in my ears.

A few weeks ago, I decided that the Harley needed an audio upgrade. I just received this retro kit, including 100 watt speakers a few days ago, and it's installation will be one of my first projects when we get back to Lake Havasu. With the new radio, I'll be able to plug in my Ipod, and along with the CD player, the time periods of no music, or undesirable music, will be a thing of the past. This package from Biketronics integrates the new stereo with the handlebar controls, so I won't be giving up anything regarding volume & station selection, as I ride down the road.

I did try and remedy the problem a few years ago, when on a trip back to Georgia, my son Mike and I installed a Sirius satellite kit. It worked for 1 day, as I rode west through Alabama & Mississippi, then it abruptly quit. When I got home, I tried to fix the problem, but finally gave up when I decided that the antenna was defective.

Soon, while riding in the open desert, or in remote locations, instead of only being able to pick up that one station that is in a different language, and inevitably plays mariachi type music, my options will be expanded greatly!

THE BRIGHT ANGEL TRAIL

One of the most famous hiking trails in the entire world is located right here at Grand Canyon National Park. The Bright Angel Trail starts in the Grand Canyon Village, and drops over 4,000 feet in 8.1 miles, where it reaches the Colorado River. The original trail was developed by the Havasupai Native Americans, who seasonally stayed at Indian Garden, about half way between the rim and the river. In 1890, Ralph Cameron set up residence at the Grand Canyon, and improved the trail due to the increasing numbers of tourists arriving to see this natural wonder. For the next 38 years, Cameron charged a toll to all who used the Bright Angel Trail. In 1928, 9 years after Grand Canyon National Park was created, Cameron relinquished control of the trail, and the Park Service dropped the user fee.

When Nancy was here a few weeks ago, she and Patty hiked down the upper part of the trail, but I haven't set foot on it yet. Now that I think about it, the chances of me doing any hiking on the Bright Angel Trail are slim to none. Not really my thing, but thousands hike up and down this classic trail every year. Every morning at 7am, the famous Grand Canyon Mules take people down the trail to Phantom Ranch for an overnight stay at the river.

I took these photos of the trail from the Hermits Road Trailview Overlook, on my bicycle ride last week. From this vantage point, the entire trail from the rim, down to Indian Garden is visible. The farther down the trail you look, the more the people resemble ants, as they either descend or ascend this zig zagging historic trail.

Today is my 2nd work day of the week, and Patty is off on a Ranger walk down part of the Hermit Trail. By the end of the summer, she's going to know this place like the back of her hand.

We'll be pulling out of here on September 11th, the 10th anniversary of the Muslim terrorists attack on America. Every time I think about that date, and what happened, I can't help but wonder what perverted thought process is in the minds of these people who think killing themselves, and innocent people is for their greater good. I guess it's like trying to reason with a drunk, in most cases, it just isn't possible.

CHP MEMORIES

After working in the Los Banos CHP Office for a couple of years, the Commander retired, and a new Captain was assigned to the area. In my years with the Patrol, there was always a certain amount of collective anxiety whenever a change of command took place. Not only was this Captain new, but he was young, with a wife and baby. His name was George Edgerton, and he made quite an impression on me. Part of his resume was filled with prior experience in the specialized field of accident reconstruction, and when he learned that I was like a sponge on the subject, he took me under his wing. When you promote to the rank of Captain, your days of investigating accidents are long gone, but whenever I, or another Officer had a complex investigation, he often got involved, and shared some of his expertise.

It didn't take George long to gain the respect, and admiration of the troops, and when I had the chance, I was soaking up as much of his knowledge as I could. He and his wife Kim, were quickly accepted into many of the office's after hours activities, and George wasn't afraid to tip a beer with the guys after a baseball, or basketball game. Having a young Commander was a new experience not only for myself, but for most of the Officers working in the Los Banos Area.

It was about 1977, when there was a fog related accident on Interstate 5, where multiple fatalities, injuries, and vehicles were involved. Upon arrival at one of these scenes, it's difficult to imagine an outcome, where you know exactly what happened. This particular accident occurred during heavy fog where visibility was only a few feet, and even after I was the first on the scene, vehicles were still crashing into the big pile of cars and trucks. If you want to talk about scary moments, try and picture the loud sound of crunching metal, without being able to see the picture! Unfortunately, these tule fog related, multiple vehicle accidents occur in the San Joaquin Valley, and when they do, there's no choice but to close the freeway. When I put out the call for lots of help, it took a few minutes for other Officers, and Cal Trans to shut off the flow of vehicles into the big pileup.

I'm not going to get into the details of the accident investigation, other than to say that there were 32 vehicles involved, and I had to try and figure out exactly what happened, and in what order. This was the first, and largest accident that I ever investigated, and initially, the task ahead seemed to be almost overwhelming. After several weeks, with the help of many co-workers, and Captain George, the investigation and report was eventually finished, and I was able to lift a huge weight off my shoulders.

I must have made a favorable impression on the Captain, because it wasn't very long after we had put this huge investigation to bed, that he and I sat down, and had a discussion about the future. The CHP Academy was offering a one week, advanced training class relating to determining speed from skid marks, and George wanted to send me to this specialized training.
This particular training was only offered once, or twice a year, and to say that I was happy to accept the offer, was the classic understatement. For several years, I had been improving my abilities in determining speed from vehicle skids, and this was an opportunity that only a few Officers got. The vote of confidence from my Captain was a huge boost not only to my ego, but it swung the door wide open to further career advancements in this specialized field of accident reconstruction.

THE ELK RUT

The white antlers are absent the velvet, and will turn darker as we get further into the Elk breeding season

Yesterday morning, we saw the first signs of the Elk Rut, just in front of our motor home. The top picture shows one of the very large male bull Elk, with the velvet gone from his antlers. This is one of the first things that happens to the males, leading up to the breeding season. Soon, the more dominant males will start to bugle loudly, as their necks swell up, and they try to establish influence over the females. A few weeks from now, the small groups of males will separate, and they will start to compete for dominance over the groups of females.

Several years ago when we were in Canada during the fall, we witnessed the Elk Rut first hand, as a dominant bull Elk was being very aggressive in his attempt to keep his harem of females under control. When I watch the tourists, camera in hand, walk within just a few feet of these large male Elk, I keep my fingers crossed that the Elk's aggressive behavior isn't taken out on one of these clueless amateur photographers. During the breeding season, these 7-900 pound males can be quite dangerous.

These guys haven't started to lose the velvet on their antlers

I know, I promised not to do any more pictures of Elk or Deer, unless one was attacking me, or the motor home. But, as these guys walked past our front door yesterday morning, I just couldn't help myself. Many of the residents here in Trailer Village, put out large containers that they keep filled with water. I suspect that is one of the reasons that the Elk and Deer are seen in the area, almost on a daily basis.